Seiko makes the bezel and middle section of the case black colored, as well as the crown and chronograph pushers. For more information on the movement and operation of this watch, please refer to my article on Seiko Ananta Spring Drive watches here. Functionality for this watch (to repeat) includes the time, 12 hour chronograph, date, and GMT hand. All works quite nicely, as the movement and Spring Drive technology aren't really possible to beat. When Seiko wants to be the best, they are. When I first saw the watch, I wasn't sure how well the gold toned hands on black, went with the titanium case and bracelet. While the color and material combinations aren't common, it works in a unique sort of way. The watch is cool, and reminds me a bit of some older Toyota cars that switched out the steel colored Toyota logo for a gold colored one when the trim level was a bit higher. Just a neat little reminder that says this is a special version of the Ananta collection - always nice to see Seiko be creative with their limited edition pieces. Price for the Seiko Ananta Spring Drive Titanium Chronograph GMT Limited Edition watch (ref. SPS011) is about ,400. Yes, it is pricey. But you really can't buy this technology anywhere else, for any price. It is about 00 more than the steel, non-limited version. Look out for a few of these to reach the US soon.
Let me explain what I think a Tiffany & Co. watch should be. Tiffany items have always had a very refined, lasting aesthetic to them. Nothing wild, nothing too avant garde, just tasteful pieces that look almost timeless in design. In addition to that, something wearable from Tiffany should be generation-less. Meaning that it should look good on a 20 year old, and still look good on that same person when they are 40. Thus, the items aren't about being youthful or mature, just nice looking. Tiffany has held this concept in high regard, and if you stroll around one of their stores you will see this underlying design principle at work in most of what they sell. So traditionally Tiffany watches have been like this. Good looking pieces that grown on you and are simple to live with. The very essence of prudent good taste.
Each has deliciously simple dials that ooze style and restrained masculine good taste. My top pick if the Vintage BR Heritage 123 Carbon. Amazingly comfy and bold dial that to me feels like a fresh alternative to many Panerai watches. Just a simple thing like putting the watch in a round case did so much. Note the vintage style curved edge sapphire crystal. The combo of the matte black light, tan colored leather is excellent.
It comes on a rubber strap with a steel deployment clasp. I like the use of orange stitching, although it is purely cosmetic. Inside the watch is a Sellita SW200 automatic movement that has been decorated. For the price of this watch, I would have liked a bit more. Not that there is anything wrong with the SW200 (equivalent to an ETA 2824), but it can be found in watches at a fraction of the cost of this watch. At the same time, the SW200 does make for a rugged movement in dive style watches. Still, for the price, I feel that there should have at least been a 2892, or equivalent movement. As ETA movements are harder and harder to get, expect to see more from Sellita, and other similar mechanical movement makers.
A particularly attractive line from Maurice de Mauriac of Zurich is this Moon Chronograph watch collection. It comes in many different versions (see here), but is a pretty clever take on use of a Valjoux 7751 automatic movement. Seen here is the top of the line piece in solid pink gold, but the diversely customizable collection is offered in various case sizes, in various materials, with various dials.
The main dial for the watch is used for the chronograph seconds hand, and has a flange (in ceramic) with indicators. There are customizable precious stones placed at the "hour indicator" spots on the flange as well. In the bottom image they are likely black diamonds or sapphires. You'll notice that the watch below and on the wrist of Mr. Claret are a bit different. This is due to the customization options the watch has. Claret prefers some white in his dark watch. So you have light colored stones around the dial, white rubber belts, and some white inserts in the crown and pusher. Looks pretty cool to me.
This is the new limited edition Oris sub seconds diver made to help out the Great Barrier Reef. Each watch that is sold will have Oris donating 50 Swiss Francs (that's it?) to the Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS). Didn't anyone tell Oris they don't use Swiss Francs in Australia! I joke! The money will go to help keep creatures in the Great Barrier Reef alive. Basically, there are a lot of serious issues with the reef and rather than help preserve certain areas, the project is going to relocate animals. A brave endeavor indeed. "Little fish! Sign these papers, you don't live here anymore." Now get out of here... we are gonna take you to a better place... Yea, a much better place (chuckle)."
You can get one of these Chaumet Dandy Chronograph watches with the steel bracelet for about ,900 on James List here.
The HM4 engine doesn't have a tourbillon, but you can see the escapement wheel moving through a sapphire window on the top of the watch - which creates a great sense of perpetual motion. It is an amazing apparatus the HM4. Not only does it work really well, but you get this wonderful feeling of membership into a special club of exclusive watch enthusiasts just by putting the watch on.
Cones and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
In images of the watch the first thing you are likely to notice is the color brown. The watch case, dial, and strap are all brown. They look like aged leather, and the look is pretty good I must admit. The vintage style leather strap is cool and feels high quality with its medium brown tone and contrast stitching. Don't forget the matching brown, Panerai style buckle. According the Panerai, the color of the stitching was meant to match the color of the SuperLumiNova on the watch dial - a little detail that you'd probably need pointed out to you to notice, but the effect works in the watch's aesthetic favor.
Thanks to SwissKubiK for the review unit. Opinions are 100% independent.
Three hand AT watches have a particularly delightful to view face. The design is calming, and feels like a perfect mix between occupied and uncluttered. The font for the Arabic numerals is interesting, while the colors used are soothing. A real low-key visage in a "notice me body." Without the fun colors, the AT collection wouldn't quite be what it is. While the designs that can only be described as "confident but relaxed" won't appeal to everyone, it hard to argue that these watches aren't well-designed. The chronograph AT models take a different direction, and feel very different than the three-hand models. The very symmetrical dial uses a bisected series of chronograph subdials that simply use both sides of the hand to read out information. Inside both of the watches are Swiss ETA movements. An ETA caliber F06 for the three-hander, and an ETA caliber 251.471 for the chronograph model.
Any watch industry journalist knows that while you need to interview the CEO's of major brands in the hope that you might get some advertising income out of them down the line, said brand executives mostly make for pointless discussions. They speak in vagaries, are overly positive, and often only speak in "brand mantra." Independents are often much better to speak with, and Mr. Halter makes for a good opinion.
What about the rest of the watch? Some Oris watches that are limited editions are dramatically different that their core collection. This is just a thematic change with some different colors, etc... but gives people a nice reason to invest in a subsidiary seconds diver if they have been wavering before or needed something a bit more snazzy. The watch is 47mm wide in steel and has that great dive watch case that Oris is well-known for. Double crowns on the left side of the case are for adjusting/winding the movement, and for the helium escape valve.
The version of the new Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph calibre 1887 that I was checking out personally will be changed a bit. The image at the bottom of this article of the black dialed version watch represents what the final version that will be available late this year. Until then, the version you see images of is available. At least that is how I understand it. I think that in the future the "half year 1887" will be a collector's item. Changes are relatively minor, but important. Notable are the lack of the tachymeter scale on the bezel (a wise decision as no one uses that), and some cosmetic changes in the chronograph subdials (wise as well). There may be a few other little things that are different. Which the Carrera 1887 is available now, this updated version of the new watch won't be out for another 6 months or so. This cool new Tag was the subject of some controversy. If you recall, the "in-house made and developed" Calibre 1887 movement wasn't so in-house developed. You can read more about that here. Tag Heuer licensed the movement base from Seiko, and then make a few little changes to it. Though it is true that the movement is being made by Tag Heuer even if they didn't really totally develop it